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Chorwacja: Dalmatyńczyk pod krawatem [ARTYKUŁ NASZEGO CZYTELNIKA]

Dalmacja, historyczna kraina w Chorwacji, jest jednym z ulubionych zagranicznych kierunków wakacyjnych Polaków. Skąd bierze się nasza fascynacja tą częścią Europy? Z jakich powodów kilkadziesiąt tysięcy rodaków co roku podróżuje przez pół kontynentu, by spędzić swój urlop właśnie w tym miejscu? - pyta nasz czytelnik, Maciek Ekiert.

Być może to chęć odkrywania bogatej historii basenu Morza Adriatyckiego? Ślady cywilizacji na terenach Dalmacji sięgają czasów starożytnego Rzymu. W samym sercu Splitu, największego miasta tej krainy, stoi potężny pałac – rezydencja cesarza Dioklecjana z przełomu III i IV wieku, którą władca zbudował z myślą o swojej emeryturze. Rozmiar tej budowli świadczy o statusie, jakim cieszyli się cesarze starożytnego Rzymu.

Ten „dom spokojnej starości” liczy 214 metrów szerokości i 175 metrów długości! Rozległe tereny pałacu służą dziś splickim mieszkańcom, którzy mają tu swoje mieszkania, restauracje, hotele czy galerie. Korytarze pałacu zmieniły się w miejskie ulice i tylko jego centralna część przeznaczona jest dla turystów.

Mieszkanie we wnętrzach pałacu liczącego 1600 lat może pozornie wydawać się atrakcyjne, jest jednak
sporo minusów takiego stanu rzeczy. Od 1979 roku pałac jest bowiem wpisany na listę światowego dziedzictwa UNESCO, co znacznie utrudnia na przykład przeprowadzenie jakiegokolwiek remontu swojego lokum. Ciekawostką jest fakt, że to właśnie w pałacu Dioklecjana telewizja HBO nakręciła wiele scen z najnowszej serii popularnego na całym świecie serialu „Gra o Tron”. Na miłośników historii i architektury czeka także przytulne miasteczko Trogir, oddalone od Splitu zaledwie o 25 kilometrów. Cała historyczna część miasta wpisana została na listę UNESCO – imponująca jest między innymi katedra św. Wawrzyńca z przepięknym portalem wejściowym i dzwonnicą z XVI wieku. Nieco zaniedbane, ale idealne dla tych, którzy potrafią puścić wodze fantazji, są też rozległe ruiny starożytnego miasta Salona (dziś Solin), które w latach świetności liczyło nawet 60 tysięcy mieszkańców. Jak na warunki starożytnego Rzymu – imponująca liczba.

Pogoda na zamówienie

Być może tym, co przyciąga nas do Dalmacji, jest jednak śródziemnomorski klimat i piękne plaże? Morze Adriatyckie należy do najcieplejszych w Europie, a Chorwaci kąpią się w nim niemal przez cały rok. Nikogo tu nie dziwi widok tubylców ubranych w slipy i grających w picigin (rodzaj chorwackiej zabawy plażowej) w połowie lutego!

Popularnością wśród turystów cieszą się pobliskie słoneczne wyspy: Hvar, Pag, Vis czy Brač. Ciekawostką jest, że to właśnie z wyspy Brač pochodzi kamień, z którego zbudowany jest Biały Dom w Waszyngtonie i pałac Dioklecjana w Splicie. To nie przypadek, że na swoją życiową przystań miejsce to wybrał czołowy kucharz wśród podróżników – Robert Makłowicz – zachęcony zapewne jakością tutejszych win i smakiem adriatyckich ryb.

Bracia Słowianie

A być może przyjeżdżamy tu z jeszcze innych powodów? Język chorwacki należy do grup języków słowiańskich, co sprawia, że zamawiając po polsku kawę w restauracji lub kupując pamiątkowy magnes na lodówkę, zostaniemy bez problemu zrozumiani. Chorwaci to w 95 procentach katolicy. Uważają oni Jana Pawła II za „swojego papieża”, wyrażając w ten sposób wdzięczność za dwie pielgrzymki, jakie Karol Wojtyła odbył do tego kraju w kluczowych dla nich czasach
dyplomatycznej walki o niepodległość. Mieszkańcy Chorwacji są absolutnie zwariowani na punkcie piłki nożnej. W 1998 roku ich reprezentacja piłkarska zajęła trzecie miejsce na mundialu w USA, podobnie jak nasza w 1974 w Niemczech i 1982 roku w Hiszpanii. Dziś w drużynie narodowej Chorwacji grają zawodnicy uważani za jednych z najlepszych na świecie jak np. Luka Modrič z Realu Madryt. Po ponurych latach 90. XX wieku turystyka w Chorwacji rozwija się w zawrotnym tempie. Świadomi wagi tej gałęzi gospodarki dla rozwoju swojego kraju Chorwaci są bardzo przyjaźnie
nastawieni do każdego, to zechce odwiedzić ich kraj. Przekonamy się o tym w restauracji, w autobusie, a nawet w szpitalu. Być może przyjeżdżamy tu tak tłumnie właśnie dlatego. W Chorwacji możemy poczuć się jak w domu.




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